Posted by Jim on June 13, 2000 at 23:44:00:
In Reply to: Valve clearance posted by Mike on June 13, 2000 at 18:42:12:
um.... Hard to describe in writing.... Have you got a book? Book should show you, but here goes (this is from memory-- I'll take a look at the book and repost on this thread later):
First, the piston has to be at top dead center. Remove the round cover which is right by your left ankle when seated. I used a hardened washer held in a vicegrip to engage the slot; a screwdriver will just mess it up. Once the cover is off, you need to turn the engine by hand until the index mark on the rotor lines up with the one on the case (on mine the rotor index mark pointed directly backwards). Easier than it sounds- I remember the wrench hiding the index mark, and my having to put it on and off while turning a little at a time and still missing occaissionally!
Then (after removing the tank and chrome headcovers) you need to open the valve inspection covers on the front and back of the head. The inspection covers are oval, with kitty-corner tabs for screws to fasten them down.
Now you'll be able to see the rocker arms (probably not the right name, but that's what they are). Positioned over each valve is an adjusting screw and a locking nut screw. Check the clearances first, because it is a real monkey drill to get everything tightened once it is loose. If it is within tolerance (which I THINK is .003 - .005 inches)(again, I'll check the book and get back to you) then don't mess with it. Reassemble and drive off!
Remember when checking to get your feeler gauge Between the end of the screw and the top of the valve. If in doubt, start with a feeler that is too small, and get an idea of where it needs to go. It is EXTREMELY tight in there.
If they are out of adjustment, you have to loosen the locking nut, adjust the screw, then retighten without moving the screw. I tried for a long time before I figured out that if you note the angle of the slot on the screw-head (when it is within tolerance), then you can tighten the locking nut with one hand while making sure it stays in place with the other. This eliminates the need for having a third hand (and a much larger area to work in!) to hold onto your gauge. And you should always go back and double check after you get it all snugged up.
Whew! I just went back and read this, and I think I'm confused myself!!!! I'll recheck later (to make sure I didn't forget anything important, and to verify the #s).
As to oil, I stay away from synthetics. No bad experiences, but I've read that they aren't good for the Savage.
Hope this helped.
-KTRSD
-Jim